Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress.

This study focuses on the development of a performant formulation for O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions, which can be incorporated into novel dermato-cosmetic products or used as such. The O/W dermato-cosmetic emulsions contain an active complex based on a plant-derived monoterpene phenol, bakuchiol (BAK) and a signaling peptide named n-prolyl palmitoyl tripeptide-56 acetate (TPA). As a dispersed phase, we used a mix of vegetable oils, and as a continuous phase, Rosa damascena hydrosol was employed. Three emulsions containing different concentrations of the active complex were formulated (0.5% BAK + 0.5% TPA = E.1.1., 1% BAK + 1%TPA = E.1.2., 1% BAK + 2% TPA = E.1.3.). Stability testing was performed through sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation, conductivity and optical microscopy. A preliminary in vitro study regarding the diffusion ability of antioxidants through chicken skin was also undertaken. DPPH and ABTS assays were used to highlight the optimal concentration and combination in the formulation in terms of antioxidant properties and safety level of the active complex (BAK/TPA). Our results showed that the active complex used for preparing emulsions with BAK and TPA showed good antioxidant activity and is suitable for obtaining topical products with potential antiaging effects.

Dermatocosmetic Emulsions Based on Resveratrol, Ferulic Acid and Saffron (Crocus sativus) Extract to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress-Trigger Factor of Some Potential Malignant Effects: Stability Studies and Rheological Properties.

The increasing incidence of skin diseases, against the background of increased pollution, urbanism, poor habits in lifestyle, work, rest, diet and general medication, led to the development of products with a protective effect. These new types of dermatocosmetic preparations ensure maximum benefits with minimal formulation. Antioxidants are, nowadays, ingredients that stand out with a proven role in skin protection from oxidative stress and its effects. Thus, research has shown that light-textured formulas, quickly absorbed into the skin, with optimum hydration and protection against excessive free radicals, uphold the skin integrity and appearance. This article aims to evaluate essential criteria for a newly marketed product: stability, rheological properties and microbiological characteristics of oil-in-water emulsions based on a mixture of 3% resveratrol 0.5% ferulic acid and 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron. The tests led to the conclusion that O / W dermatocosmetic emulsions, based on 3% resveratrol and 0.5% ferulic acid, or also 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron, show resistance to microbiological contamination, good rheological properties (viscoelastic behavior, structural stability, acceptable shearing behavior) that reveal satisfactory texture and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to dermatological testing as the final stage in considering a new commercial product.

Antioxidants from Galium verum as Ingredients for the Design of New Dermatocosmetic Products.

The aim of this study was to use plant extracts from spontaneous flora of Moldova (Rediu-Iasi area, Romania) as polyphenols and flavonoids source in order to obtain new dermato-cosmetic formulas to prevent the actions of oxidative stress on skin. Plant extracts (from raw and dried Galium verum sp.) were obtained by: cold classical maceration (M), heat reflux extraction (HTE) and ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE). The extracts were characterized by spectrophotometric method (for polyphenols and flavonoids content and for DPPH antioxidant activity evaluation). In order to evaluate the combating and/or attenuating effects of oxidative stress on skin, the study was continued with the elaboration of emulsions that incorporate one of these extracts. The emulsions were preliminarily characterized by determining the stability over time. The obtained results encourage research in the direction of deeper characterization of these emulsions to determine the microbiological stability and dermatological tests performed on the skin treated with these new products.